Tax refund check ripped Form 2018-2022

Form 8316 is only used if (1) your employer will not refund the tax and correct the W-2 (you need this in writing), and (2) it is attached to Form 843.Use form 843 to request a refund of social security or Medicare taxes that were withheld in error, but only if your employer will not adjust the overcollection. See the instructions for Line 7. If you are a nonresident alien, see Pub. 519 for specific instructions.Pub 519 pinpoints the employment circumstances that are not subject to FICA:Generally, services performed by you as a nonresident alien temporarily in the United States as a nonimmigrant under subparagraph (F), (J), (M), or (Q) of section 101(a)(15) of the Immigration and Nationality Act are not covered under the social security program if the services are performed to carry out the purpose for which you were admitted to the United States. (This is IRC Section 3121(b)(19).)SO• IF you were a student, working ON CAMPUS or under a CPT or OPT status, and if you had Social Security and Medicare withheld, and if you have not been in the USA for 5 years (i.e. you’re still an NRA), show your employer a copy of the form 843 and its instructions and ask to have your W-2 corrected. If they won’t, then you file Form 843 without form 8316.Be sure to say that you fall under the exception of Section 3121(b)(19) excluding F-1 students from FICA and that your employer withheld the tax and is unwilling to correct the error. Include a copy of your W-2 showing the FICA withholding. Pryour complete 6 year history of being in the USA to confirm that you are a NRA under the Substantial Presence Test.

Neither the IRS nor, as far as I know, any US state with a state income tax, has any sort of program that allows you to pay extra to have your return processed expeditiously. All returns are processed in the order received (more or less), and the IRS provides no guarantees on when your refund will be issued, if indeed ever.If you pay a tax preparer to prepare your return, the preparer may offer you to pay a fee to receive your refund “faster”. This is what is called a “refund anticipation loan”: the preparer is offering to give you a short-term loan, similar to a payday loan, in exchange for you handing over your tax return to them. They will deduct fees and interest up front.Refund anticipation loans are almost always a bad deal for the consumer, there are often large fees on such loans and the interest rates can exceed 100% APR. This is an abusive form of predatory lending. Many states have laws that attempt to curtail such practices, but preparers violate these laws on a depressingly frequent basis. State Attorneys General and other consumer financial advocates regularly warn consumers against refund anticipation loans. See, for example, Illinois Attorney General - Refund Anticipation Loans:The busy tax season often brings a wide variety of scams aimed at defrauding consumers of their hard-earned tax refunds. Attorney General Madigan is warning consumers to be wary of refund anticipation products that promise a faster refund. Tax preparers pitch a variety of these products • tax refund anticipation loans, checks or debit cards • as a way to receive a tax refund instantly. In reality, they are short-term loans that often saddle consumers with high interest rates and fees that are deducted from their tax refund.It’s Your Refund—Here’s How to Keep More of It!You probably do not need a tax refund loan. If you file your tax return electronically, you can get your refund very quickly—in approximately two to three weeks—without getting a loan. You can find an organization willing to help you prepare and file your taxes for free by calling the Center for Economic Progress at 312-252-0280 or visiting this website for resources near you: http://irs.treasury.gov/freetaxp....You can find IRS policies regarding refund anticipation loans here: Tax Refund Related ProductsMy advice is to simply file the return. If you file early enough, you’ll get your refund faster than you probably expected. It’s not worth the cost and added risk of a refund anticipation loan to get a smaller tax refund a few weeks sooner.

For US Taxpayers Only:So, you have filed your return and now are you're looking for your federal tax refund. You might wonder where is my federal tax refund? or some other questions like How can I check the refund status of my Federal tax return might confuse your mind.First thing first, you must have filed your tax return in order to be eligible for federal tax return.If you don't know how to file your tax return online, you can check this article which goes by the title “How to check my Federal Tax Refund Status”Secondly, IRS must have accepted your filed return. After this, IRS approve your refund and it takes about 19 days for the refund to be sent or deposited. In total it takes about 21 days to get a refund.But here in this article, we will mainly focus on enabling you to check your refund status.You will need the following information in order to be able to check refund status of your federal tax.Your Social Security Number or ITINYour Filling statusExact amount of Refund You are eligible toThere are three ways where you can check your federal tax refund status,1. IRS2GO App2. IRS Helpline3. My refund toolsWe will go through each of these methods one by one in detail,How to Check Federal Tax Refund Status on Your Smartphone?If you're looking for an easy way to check your federal tax refund status, this is the easiest one. All you have to do is to Install the official app "IRS2GO app". Following is the step by step procedure,Go to App store (Apple users) or Play store (Android Users)Type "IRS2GO app" in the search bar.Install the app which is offered by Internal Revenue Services with 4.1 ratings currently. (To avoid fake/Scam)This app is currently available in English & Spanish.Additional note: In addition to checking refund status you can also make a payment, find free tax assistance as well. Moreover, this app also offers free tax tips.How to Check Federal Tax Refund Status Using "My Refund Tools"?So, your phone doesn't have enough space available, or you for any other reason don't want to install any application on your phone. Then, this is not the end, you can still check your refund status using "My Refund Tools". All you have to do is to follow these simple steps,Type this URL in your browser’s search bar.You will have to type your Social Security number. (This must be the number shown on your tax return)Now select your status from the options provided.Finally, enter the refund amount.Press Submit.Tip: You can change your language from the top right corner.How to Check Federal Tax Refund Status Using IRS Helpline?So, here is our last but not the least procedure for taxpayers to check their Federal Tax refund status. But we suggest to use this option only if,You're unable to check your refund status by trying the above mentioned two methods but its been more than 21 days since you filed your return online, and the refund has not been sent or deposited.Its been more than 42 days or 6 weeks since you filed your return manually, and the refund has not been sent or deposited to you.When "Where is my refund" (A portal online provided by IRS) tells you to contact helpline.You call at the following number,If you're an Individual, Call on this number 800-829-1040.If you own a Business, use this number to call 800-829-4933.If you deal in a Non-profit Organization, Dial 877-829-5500.For Estate and gift taxes 866-699-4083.If you need Assistance in Excise taxes, Here's the phone number for you 866-699-4096.You can find any number of IRS helpline here.Note: Helplines are open on Monday through Friday.Feel free to Ask Any Question here.Book Appointment here for any kind of Bookkeeping and Accounting services.

You need form 1040NR (or 1040NR-EZ) and form 8843.See Publication 519 (2022), U.S. Tax Guide for Aliens   for some help as well as Page on irs.gov. You may have to file a nonresident state tax return as well but that depends on your state.Be careful when using web-based software (such as TurboTax) because not all of them support nonresident forms.

BFS will automatically convert your refund to a check payment and mail it to the address on your tax return. Allow about 4 weeks for total processing.Don't bother calling the IRS about your refund. Once your refund is approved it is released to the Bureau of the Fiscal Service for payment. Communication between the IRS and BFS is minimal and the IRS won't have any information about your refund until about the time that the check hits your mailbox.

Two endorsements are required. Banks won’t even cash that if it isn’t deposited into a joint account of both parties

I ALLOWED MYSELF TO BE QUASI-CHEATED[CAVEAT: Read this only if you want to learn how to get a good deal at a new car lot]Here’s what happened to me…I went to a dealership that advertised a base model SUV for $6,000 off. Full MSRP was $24,500 and this kind of deep discount is almost unheard of on a car at this price point.I went that evening to go check it out. Our salesperson tried to brush me off, saying stuff like “Oh, that’s our ad car…let me show you these other cars” that happen to be more expensive. We played her game for a bit and then left.We get home and I checked the website later in the evening and they had dropped the price another $2,000. They did this before they closed. That’s a total of $8,000 off. So I clicked the button that indicated “get internet price”. Up until then, I’ve never clicked those buttons. So if you’ve ever wanted to know what happens, it just prompts you to fill out your info and they’ll contact you.The next morning, I called as they opened. I found out that the “internet price” is BS but it’s a great way to schedule to meet with someone about a specific car. So I made the appointment and before I hung up I asked “by the way what is the internet price?” Her response “oh we usually take a couple hundred dollars off the advertised price.” What they didn’t know is that I live only one mile away from the dealership and I cleared my schedule for the day.So I showed up early to throw them off a little. I didn’t want them to claim they already sold the car. Even though I have a smart phone, I wrote everything down about the car, including the VIN #. The VIN# is critical because it is the unique identifier of the car. I wrote all of this down just in case their Wi-Fi didn’t work. It turns out that I was glad I took this precaution.So the sales guy had to search for the keys. This took a good 10 minutes. Then we test drove the car. We went back to his desk and I said “just give me the out the door price.” The out the door price is the bottom line overall price. It’s the equivalent of an executive summary of a long article that no one wants to read. It forces them to show their hand for the entire deal. When he showed it to me he broke it out in his notes as he came up with the final price. I noted that the beginning price was $1,000 more than the advertised internet price. I then informed him that I really didn’t want to have to explore the prospect of figuring out “how low can this deal go”, I just wanted the bottom line up front. I already new that the advertised deal was the lowest they would go…I just wanted to know what the fees looked like that they would tack on.Then I mentioned “are you sure this is the same car as the one you have advertised?” He then said “let me check”. Sure enough it was a different car. Then he acted like he didn’t know what I was talking about. It’s at this moment I pulled out my handwritten notes and showed him the VIN#. He then said I’m not familiar with this deal (even though I made an appointment for this car specifically, and it was documented on the computer form I filled out which put a “hold” on the VIN#). At this point I almost walked away. Then he said “let me get the keys”.After another 20 minutes he came back and we hit the lot. Sure enough, after searching for another 20 minutes we found the car the keys went to…it was the wrong car yet again. At this point I figure he wants me to buzz off because someone might have made a mistake on the ad. So I wait for him to find the right keys. Another 10 minutes goes by.He reappears and we start looking. Turns out that it was smack dab in the middle of a sea of cars that was 20 cars long and 3 rows deep. It also had the oldest inspection tag. It was a pain to get it out but we did. We took it for a test drive and I put it through it’s paces. Finally, the right car. The one I came for. It had 700 miles on it and it was on the lot longer than the other cars of the same model. It was still a new car, never been titled, and was most likely used as a dealer car. No big problem for me.So I finally got my car located, identified and test drove. Then he works the numbers. He snuck in the delivery fee and tacked on tag, title, and tax. I challenged him on the delivery fee because it was accounted for on the full MSRP before the $8,000 off. I further pointed out that it was like paying twice for the delivery fee. Another way of looking at it is that the deal was really $7,400 off MSRP instead of $8,000. He wasn’t going to compromise on the delivery fee so I said fine and let him know that I was close to walking out the door.Then he does the loan and runs my credit check. I have great credit, yet he comes back and informs me that the best rate he found was at 6.99% interest with Ford Motor Credit. Yeah…right. However I had a way to roll out of it, by refinancing with State Farm. State Farm Insurance is now in the money loan and banking business. I learned about it recently and had already used it on another purchase. So I played the game of 6.99% but I informed the salesman that he really is wasting his time and my time. Then I pulled out my checkbook and told him that I’ll just write a check, no need for the loan. I didn’t want to do it that way but I just had enough to cover it. He informed me that he can’t accept a check because “we have to make a little money on this deal.” Now at first glance this sounded weird. But he was right. The dealership needs to make a little money. They were giving me a generous $8,000 off MSRP but at the same time they needed to nudge the bottom line by a couple hundred dollars. It’s a true negotiation in which I was saving thousands, and they were charging a few hundred dollars to save me thousands. It’s give and take. All true negotiations are give and take, the trick is to figure out how they are benefiting. It makes sense to spend a few hundred in fees and whatnot so that I can save a significant amount measured in thousands of dollars.They were really hoping I would be lazy and stay in that inflated loan because they would have made over the MSRP over the term of the loan. That was their end game. I ended up rolling out of that ridiculous loan and refinancing at 2.8% with State Farm within a couple of days.My agent at State Farm did a bit of a post mortem analysis on my paperwork and she found that the title fee was $5.00 higher than industry average and that the loan rate was ridiculous, but she acknowledged that I played a smart game because it was a great deal. What made it a great deal is that I was able to refinance. That was key.As it turned out, Ford Motor Company sent me two letters. One was an acknowledgement that they overcharged for the title fee and gave me a five dollar refund check. Then they sent a letter informing me that my interest rate was quoted in error. It should be 6.9% instead of 6.99%…seriously.So in summary, the tactics that the salesman used was somewhat deceptive and borderline unethical. But I saw it coming and at every step of the way I had a counter tactic to use and I could account for what he was doing. I’ll negotiate a few hundred dollars away to save thousands up front on a deal. The important thing is that I had the long game figured out, or I would have walked away. In the final analysis, I got a brand new car for what an average used car costs.